Saturday, February 1, 2020

YAMAHA A3000 FIX - PART 6, CONCLUSIONS



So, now that I have completed my A3000 Fix project, I think now it is good to sum things up in a single post, so as to serve as a guide for other users to fix & improve their Yamaha sampler.


CONCLUSIONS :

A)     REINFORCING PLATE 

Problem :  Due to the Yamaha A3000 inherent design, the encoders PCB is prone to broken solder joints and lifting of copper traces, because the encoder push-action force is transferred to the PCB solder joints .
Solution :  Yamaha solved this in the A4000 sampler by mounting the PCB on a metal plate and securing the encoders with M7 nuts.  For the A3000, a special metal reinforcing plate has been constructed so that the push-action force will be transferred to the plate instead of the PCB.



   

>>>  Read the story here (PART-1) and here (PART-2) .



B)     ENCODERS’ SELECTION  (basic specs start-point:  30-detent-15 pulses with switch)

Problem :  The stock Alps encoders of the A3000 do all the hard work for the A3000, and they are used a lot, so at some point they start to behave erratically and with no precision whatsoever. Some say it’s Yamaha’s software problem, others say it is just fatigue.
Solution:   After a lot of research and also conversation with other users and their personal experience, the correct replacement encoders readily available today are as follows :

    1.)         BOURNS PEC11L-4215F-S0015 : THIS IS THE EXACT replacement for the old stock Alps encoder! 
{ How did I miss it the first time when reading the data sheets ?? I got dizzy from reading  so many datasheets, probably, and my mind was stuck with the number “20” for the shaft….
WRONG ! 20 mm is the total height of the encoder!! }
Dimensionally is exactly the same as the stock encoder.   It is only slightly tighter when turning the knob (it has 150-200 gf.cm torque specs compared to the NEW  Alps models which have about 100 gf.cm or 10 mN.m ), but the old stock encoders are also tighter.  So, along with reinforcing plate, it seems to be be an exact match !  (Not tested, but I want to…)
    2.)         BOURNS PEC11L-4220F-S0015 :  This was my 1rst choice to order. I have read some good reviews concerning the quality of these Bourns encoders.  Also, they can be mounted on the A3K chassis with a reinforcing plate and M7 nuts (same as the above).  It is only slightly tighter when turning the knob (it has 150-200 gf.cm torque specs compared to the Alps EC11E15244G1 which has about 100 gf.cm or 10 mN.m ). Something to be considered also is that it is 3mm bigger in total height than the old Alps, but after cutting to length it will fit exactly. (Not tested)
    3.)         BOURNS PEC11L-4225F-S0015 :  This was ordered from me by mistake (I intended to buy the ones above), so some modifications needed to be made :  Height should be reduced (I cut’em off by 5 mm , and still are higher than the stock ones by 3mm), and also the lip on the shaft is thicker than the Bourns above, so I was stuck with those which protrude from the faceplate of the A3K by 3mm. BUT they work flawlessly.  (TESTED by me = ok)
    4.)         ALPS EC11N1524402  :  This is a new model from ALPS, and according to my conversation with another user who discovered this one, this guy verifies that it is an exact replacement for the old Alps encoder (dimensionally, anyway), and also the switch has less push-force value from the BOURNS which would be very easy on the Yamaha PCB. The only difference is that this encoder does NOT have threads, so mounting an extra metal plate with nuts cannot be done (but might not be needed, anyway).  An almost perfect choice!
    5.)         ALPS EC11E15244G1 :   Another alternative by Alps, which was my 2nd choice to order. The user (Anonymous) who bought it and tested it, CONFIRMS that after cutting 3 mm off the shaft length the encoder is almost identical to the old stock encoders and works the same. It doesn’t have any threads, though, just like the one above. Excellent job, my friend !! (TESTED by Anonymous user = ok) -  (check his photo)
    6.)         ALPS EC11E15244B2  :  Has not been tested by me, but the user who has states that it works flawlessly.  BUT it has some differences with the stock encoder :
a.      The switch travel is longer than the stock one (1,5 mm vs 0,5 mm of the stock Alps)
b.      Total height of the encoder is greater than the stock ones, and the encoder shaft protrudes from the A3K faceplate. There is, of course, a correction route (cutting-off).
c.       Also No threads and nuts.
You might pass this by, mainly because of the increased switch travel (1,5 instead of 0,5 mm).

And 2 more alternatives (not tested) :
    7.)           Alps EC11K1524406  :  (NOT TESTED) Has an increased turning torque value.
    8.)           Alps EC11B15244A7  :  (NOT TESTED) Switch travel is 1,5 mm (not recommended).

===>>  To check the above encoders datasheets, just click on their part nrs above.

     
 So, I think there is quite a selection of alternatives to the stock encoders, it is just a matter of availability.  If you can find it easily, then get it!


 In my personal opinion, these 2 options may be the best :
No cutting and grinding is needed and they fit like a glove ,  the Bourns has also threading for mounting with M7 nuts and the ALPS has a slightly softer action . But you will be the judge and decide what fits better for you.

See the photos below for comparison :

cut Bourns 4225 / stock Alps / Bourns 4225
Bourns PEC11L-4225F-S0015 : as bought vs the modded ones


stock old ALPS encoders

ALPS EC11E type drawing




BOURNS PEC11L-series Encoder selection

ALPS EC11-series encoder selection
















=>>  Read the complete story here (PART-4)  and also useful are the Anonymous comments at my initial post here (A3000 FIX) .




C)     ENCODERS PRECISION IMPROVEMENT  (CAPACITOR HACK)

Board assembly  : ok
I assembled the board according to these detailed instructions :  https://seaweedfactory.blogspot.com/p/yamaha-a4000-encoder-fix-and-compact.html
 


and there you have it :


complete kit
the board installed in the sampler
 

Well, the thing works !  Night and day improvement even with old stock encoders.


--> Read the story here (PART-5) .


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CREDITS:

Following pages were essential and very helpful to my research for a better A3000, so I am obliged to give credit to their information, and say a big THANK YOU to :

  • https://todbot.com/a3k/knobs/  : deals with the(slight) improvement of the encoders’ erratic behavior (IF, of course they are in good condition, which in my case I can’t say that they were ). Was my first detailed information source about the A3K encoders problem.

  • http://www.jsigle.com/musicol/emufix.htm  : this is a modification of the EMU sampler that improves vastly the encoders functioning precision (some people did this mod and saw an improvement). It contains detailed technical information for those who understand electronics (not me 😕 , but I finally got it!!  😸 )This mod CAN be applied to the Yamaha A4000 (SEE LINK BELOW)
  •  I have to give credit also to Anonymous , a A3000 user who commented in my blog, and through our conversation and his testing, some very useful information came out and conclusions have been made. A truly delightful collaboration, which I (we) hope will help other users of this wonderful sampler to improve their own machine. Thank you, my friend, for sharing your information!


I HOPE THAT ALL THIS INFORMATION WILL BE USEFUL TO YAMAHA A3000 USERS.  
IT IS MOST IMPORTANT TO SHARE OUR KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERIENCES, SO THAT
MUSIC WILL KEEP ON !!!


NOBODY ALONE KNOWS IT ALL, BUT EVERYBODY TOGETHER KNOW A LOT MORE !!!


------------   Greetings !!   ------------   



THE END  (maybe..........)






7 comments:

  1. Any chance you have the exact measurements of your backing plate so others can fabricate one easily? .. Oh and thanks for documenting this project.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks for your comment. I started with a paper template and measurement of the distance between encoders, and then worked from there.. Please note that i made the plate with whatever material i had available (scrap from old PC), and it's not perfect in anyway! Someone else could figure out a better way to do it (with better raw material). Just as a draft guide, you should measure the sampler's dimensions in front of the encoders' pcb and keep the plate level with the chassis..
      Next couple of weeks i will try to find time to disassembly the facia of the sampler and take the necessary measurements, and then update the relative posts (part-1&2). Please be patient with me...

      Delete
    2. Not necessary :) I was just trying to be lazy. I'll do the paper template technique and cannibalize a old PC or random scrap metal from my downed submarine...or my old Ultra man suit.

      Delete
    3. Don't be lazy , my friend ! :)
      The greater the effort, the greater the satisfaction !!
      Cheers! :)

      Nevertheless, i'll try to find time to take all measurements of the plate..

      Delete
  2. Hi Joe! Here Óscar from BCN. This model fits too perfecly EC11B15242AE

    ReplyDelete
  3. Hi 'Oscar. The part-nr you mention does NOT fit the A3000 but it is suitable for the A4000/5000 samplers which have a different PCB with horizontal pins. The A3K's PCB uses vertical type encoders.

    ReplyDelete
  4. Correct Joel ! The model that i made the replacement was the 4000 series.

    ReplyDelete