Showing posts with label reinforcement plate. Show all posts
Showing posts with label reinforcement plate. Show all posts

Saturday, February 1, 2020

YAMAHA A3000 FIX - PART 6, CONCLUSIONS



So, now that I have completed my A3000 Fix project, I think now it is good to sum things up in a single post, so as to serve as a guide for other users to fix & improve their Yamaha sampler.


CONCLUSIONS :

A)     REINFORCING PLATE 

Problem :  Due to the Yamaha A3000 inherent design, the encoders PCB is prone to broken solder joints and lifting of copper traces, because the encoder push-action force is transferred to the PCB solder joints .
Solution :  Yamaha solved this in the A4000 sampler by mounting the PCB on a metal plate and securing the encoders with M7 nuts.  For the A3000, a special metal reinforcing plate has been constructed so that the push-action force will be transferred to the plate instead of the PCB.



   

>>>  Read the story here (PART-1) and here (PART-2) .



B)     ENCODERS’ SELECTION  (basic specs start-point:  30-detent-15 pulses with switch)

Problem :  The stock Alps encoders of the A3000 do all the hard work for the A3000, and they are used a lot, so at some point they start to behave erratically and with no precision whatsoever. Some say it’s Yamaha’s software problem, others say it is just fatigue.
Solution:   After a lot of research and also conversation with other users and their personal experience, the correct replacement encoders readily available today are as follows :

    1.)         BOURNS PEC11L-4215F-S0015 : THIS IS THE EXACT replacement for the old stock Alps encoder! 
{ How did I miss it the first time when reading the data sheets ?? I got dizzy from reading  so many datasheets, probably, and my mind was stuck with the number “20” for the shaft….
WRONG ! 20 mm is the total height of the encoder!! }
Dimensionally is exactly the same as the stock encoder.   It is only slightly tighter when turning the knob (it has 150-200 gf.cm torque specs compared to the NEW  Alps models which have about 100 gf.cm or 10 mN.m ), but the old stock encoders are also tighter.  So, along with reinforcing plate, it seems to be be an exact match !  (Not tested, but I want to…)
    2.)         BOURNS PEC11L-4220F-S0015 :  This was my 1rst choice to order. I have read some good reviews concerning the quality of these Bourns encoders.  Also, they can be mounted on the A3K chassis with a reinforcing plate and M7 nuts (same as the above).  It is only slightly tighter when turning the knob (it has 150-200 gf.cm torque specs compared to the Alps EC11E15244G1 which has about 100 gf.cm or 10 mN.m ). Something to be considered also is that it is 3mm bigger in total height than the old Alps, but after cutting to length it will fit exactly. (Not tested)
    3.)         BOURNS PEC11L-4225F-S0015 :  This was ordered from me by mistake (I intended to buy the ones above), so some modifications needed to be made :  Height should be reduced (I cut’em off by 5 mm , and still are higher than the stock ones by 3mm), and also the lip on the shaft is thicker than the Bourns above, so I was stuck with those which protrude from the faceplate of the A3K by 3mm. BUT they work flawlessly.  (TESTED by me = ok)
    4.)         ALPS EC11N1524402  :  This is a new model from ALPS, and according to my conversation with another user who discovered this one, this guy verifies that it is an exact replacement for the old Alps encoder (dimensionally, anyway), and also the switch has less push-force value from the BOURNS which would be very easy on the Yamaha PCB. The only difference is that this encoder does NOT have threads, so mounting an extra metal plate with nuts cannot be done (but might not be needed, anyway).  An almost perfect choice!
    5.)         ALPS EC11E15244G1 :   Another alternative by Alps, which was my 2nd choice to order. The user (Anonymous) who bought it and tested it, CONFIRMS that after cutting 3 mm off the shaft length the encoder is almost identical to the old stock encoders and works the same. It doesn’t have any threads, though, just like the one above. Excellent job, my friend !! (TESTED by Anonymous user = ok) -  (check his photo)
    6.)         ALPS EC11E15244B2  :  Has not been tested by me, but the user who has states that it works flawlessly.  BUT it has some differences with the stock encoder :
a.      The switch travel is longer than the stock one (1,5 mm vs 0,5 mm of the stock Alps)
b.      Total height of the encoder is greater than the stock ones, and the encoder shaft protrudes from the A3K faceplate. There is, of course, a correction route (cutting-off).
c.       Also No threads and nuts.
You might pass this by, mainly because of the increased switch travel (1,5 instead of 0,5 mm).

And 2 more alternatives (not tested) :
    7.)           Alps EC11K1524406  :  (NOT TESTED) Has an increased turning torque value.
    8.)           Alps EC11B15244A7  :  (NOT TESTED) Switch travel is 1,5 mm (not recommended).

===>>  To check the above encoders datasheets, just click on their part nrs above.

     
 So, I think there is quite a selection of alternatives to the stock encoders, it is just a matter of availability.  If you can find it easily, then get it!


 In my personal opinion, these 2 options may be the best :
No cutting and grinding is needed and they fit like a glove ,  the Bourns has also threading for mounting with M7 nuts and the ALPS has a slightly softer action . But you will be the judge and decide what fits better for you.

See the photos below for comparison :

cut Bourns 4225 / stock Alps / Bourns 4225
Bourns PEC11L-4225F-S0015 : as bought vs the modded ones


stock old ALPS encoders

ALPS EC11E type drawing




BOURNS PEC11L-series Encoder selection

ALPS EC11-series encoder selection
















=>>  Read the complete story here (PART-4)  and also useful are the Anonymous comments at my initial post here (A3000 FIX) .




C)     ENCODERS PRECISION IMPROVEMENT  (CAPACITOR HACK)

Board assembly  : ok
I assembled the board according to these detailed instructions :  https://seaweedfactory.blogspot.com/p/yamaha-a4000-encoder-fix-and-compact.html
 


and there you have it :


complete kit
the board installed in the sampler
 

Well, the thing works !  Night and day improvement even with old stock encoders.


--> Read the story here (PART-5) .


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CREDITS:

Following pages were essential and very helpful to my research for a better A3000, so I am obliged to give credit to their information, and say a big THANK YOU to :

  • https://todbot.com/a3k/knobs/  : deals with the(slight) improvement of the encoders’ erratic behavior (IF, of course they are in good condition, which in my case I can’t say that they were ). Was my first detailed information source about the A3K encoders problem.

  • http://www.jsigle.com/musicol/emufix.htm  : this is a modification of the EMU sampler that improves vastly the encoders functioning precision (some people did this mod and saw an improvement). It contains detailed technical information for those who understand electronics (not me 😕 , but I finally got it!!  😸 )This mod CAN be applied to the Yamaha A4000 (SEE LINK BELOW)
  •  I have to give credit also to Anonymous , a A3000 user who commented in my blog, and through our conversation and his testing, some very useful information came out and conclusions have been made. A truly delightful collaboration, which I (we) hope will help other users of this wonderful sampler to improve their own machine. Thank you, my friend, for sharing your information!


I HOPE THAT ALL THIS INFORMATION WILL BE USEFUL TO YAMAHA A3000 USERS.  
IT IS MOST IMPORTANT TO SHARE OUR KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERIENCES, SO THAT
MUSIC WILL KEEP ON !!!


NOBODY ALONE KNOWS IT ALL, BUT EVERYBODY TOGETHER KNOW A LOT MORE !!!


------------   Greetings !!   ------------   



THE END  (maybe..........)

----------------------- Update March 5th 2025 : ----------------------------------

I just created a Ko-fi account. 
If you wanna show some support, please do, 

Thank you !



Tuesday, October 15, 2019

YAMAHA A3000 FIX - PART 3 final (maybe)





UPDATE 15/10/2019 :

Finally i received the  fine-pitch nuts (M7X0,75mm) to fix the encoders to the hand-made metal plate! There you have it :

Pic 1a


Pic 1b




Pic 1c




Pic 1d






Notes :

1 -  The nuts were hand tightened and a little more. Do NOT overtighten them, it's no need. Remember, that the sole purpose of the nuts is to prevent movemenet in/out of the encoders  relevant to the PCB.

2 -  I noticed that no washers were needed between the 2 metal reinforcements (in the middle of the plate - see above pic) and the encoders' PCB to align  the metal plate, after tightening the nuts. My measurements were succesful (luckily !).

3 -  I did not use any extra screws to fix the metal plate to the A3K chassis, as i initially planned (see pic 2 below) , because the 2 protrusions of the plate, on the left and on the right, touch firmly on the chassis after all other screws are tightened, so in/out movement is prevented ((see pics 3 & 4 below) .

 
 
Pic 2  (my initial planning)

 
Pic 3
  
 
Pic 4


 So, i think that my plan proved to be successful. 
The encoders feel sturdy when pushed in and turned, so the plate did the job intended to. 😃


========================================================================


 After that, i turned on the A3K and started playing with it. 
Well,...........  the skippy encoder action is still here (of course), and it still makes me mad !!
Though i cleaned the encoders with a special spray for electronics (i used Teslanol), the encoders still refuse to obey my commands !! They have a mind of their own !!!  😡 

Maybe it's time to replace them.. 

The stock encoders are ALPS EC11E15244.  They are made in Japan and are of high quality, but i might try the  BOURNS PEC11L-4220F-S0015 , and find out if there is any improvement.


So my quest for a "perfect" A3000 is not finished yet.

But, anyway, the encoders "thing" is a well known issue of the Yammies, and it is not the scope of this post.
But if i replace the encoders with the Bourns stuff, i will surely inform you all of the results.



Thanks a lot for reading.

Any comments will be welcome and useful, so please share your thoughts.


------- If you missed the previous 2 posts about the A3000 , please read them here  and here . --------


UPDATE :   https://synthnitz.blogspot.com/2020/01/yamaha-a3000-fix-part-4-new-encoders.html







Tuesday, May 28, 2019

YAMAHA A3000 FIX - PART 2


Ok. I finally found time to construct the encoders plate for my Yamaha A3000 sampler.
Below is the final version (pics 1 & 2) :

Pic 1

   



Pic.2


























       
In my first attempt, I noticed some flex in the steel plate when pushed with my finger inwards (pic 3). That’s not good, because it cancels the whole idea of the encoders push action not to be transferred to the board, meaning that the metal plate should be rigid enough.

Pic.3
So I made a reinforcement , as shown in the above pic.3 (right arrow). But one more is needed on the left (as shown with the left arrow).

Before completing the construction, I tried to fit the plate and then the faceplate of the A3K to see if everything is ok. Well, the faceplate did not go all the way in, because the steel plate I made was protruding more than the display, (see pic.4 below, and also pic.5)


Pic.4


So, what I decided to do is a little more cutting of the plate (about 2mm cut-off), so the plate’s surface would be flush with the display (see pics 5a & 5b below, before the cutting job).
 


Pic. 5a

Pic. 5b




There is the final result (after cutting and grinding....) :

Pic. 6a


Pic. 6b



You will notice that I found some other metal pieces for the reinforcements construction (pic.6b) that I liked better, and also make the plate fit better to the corresponding holes on the chassis (pic.7 below), through the board’s holes, without the need of adding any washers between the plate and the board (like in my 1rst attempt, see pic.3 & 4).


 
Pic. 7



Some more pics……

 
lifted copper traces on the board, as a result of the push-force of the encoders


lifted & damaged copper traces on the board....
 





The finished plate….
  
 
































The only thing that is missing now is to put nuts on the encoders, since the A3K did not have any installed.. (I’m still searching around, I didn’t imagine that it would be so hard to find these little things…).

So, my next steps :
1)      Find nuts for the encoders
2)      Fit the plate on the chassis with the board
3)      Testing……

As soon as I finally complete the whole procedure  …(wow! Who the f…  am i, a heart surgeon???????).. LOL
I will post the final results with more photos.

Thanks for reading, and I hope I helped somehow all the other owners of this great (though obsolete) sampler.

I can’t wait to do some fiddling with the encoders!!!! LOL

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UPDATE 29/9/2019 :

I finally ordered some fine-pitch nuts (M7X0,75mm) for the encoders from China, and i am waiting for these to arrive.
As soon as i (finally !!) fit the plate with the encoders in the A3K, i will post it..

Please be a little more patient (me, too 😉 ) .............

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UPDATE 15/10/2019 :

Finally i received the  fine-pitch nuts (M7X0,75mm) to fix the encoders to the hand-made metal plate!  Read the update here